12 good bottles of wine for $100? It can be done
By Jim Campanini (June 19, 2019)
Whether a wine costs $10 or $50, the best are those that over-deliver on quality and price. Sadly, many wine lovers overspend, believing a higher price guarantees a better wine. Not so.
Here’s why it’s important to be a value-conscious wine shopper: Based on a broad index of global sales going back 20 years, Wine Searcher recently reported that the “average retail price of a bottle of wine in the US at end of May 2019 is $73.50.” Five years ago it was $34.15. That’s a stunning 115 percent increase! The global average price is $59.30.
While higher land prices and labor costs are helping to drive increases, a more potent and disquieting trend looms: Big wine conglomerates are marketing higher-profit premium brands while reducing or eliminating portfolios of less expensive, lower-profit labels. The under $10 bottle of wine is getting squeezed out for a $20 bottle which may or may not be a better quality option.
All is not lost, however. Goaded on by a wine-shopping pal, I accepted a challenge to buy a mixed 12-bottle case for $100 or less and serve it at a dinner party. Quality was key; my palate, reputation and wallet were on the line. Well, after two months of liquid research I’m proud to announce not one, but two decent options.
The Costco Case ($98.68)
America’s No. 1 wine-seller, Costco lays claim to its own price-busting Kirkland Signature brand of global bottlings. I found the quality ranges from average (Chardonnay from Sonoma, $6.99; California Cabernet Sauvignon, $9.99 for a 1.5-liter bottle) to very good (Carneros Napa Valley Pinot Noir, $11.99, 88 points/ Wine Enthusiast; Malbec from Argentina, $8.99, 91 points/James Suckling).
Other top values were a crisp, clean and fruity Asolo Prosecco Superiore ($6.59); a deliciously tart strawberry-flavored Provence Rose` ($9.89); and a velvety, 100 percent Tempranillo Rioja Reserva from Spain ($6.99).
Filling out the selections were an easy-drinking Pinot Grigio from Friuli ($5.99); and a lip-smacking Ti Point Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand ($9.69).
Three of the nine wines were duplicates (Prosecco, Pinot Grigio, Malbec) in order to stay on budget.
Update special: Since completing my study, Costco unveiled a 2015 KS Chianti Classico Riserva for $8.49. It stands out because of its producer — the historic Villa Cafaggio estate of Greve. Add it to your Costco case in place of the second Malbec and save an extra 50 cents.
Designer Dozen ($98.38)
Eight countries are represented on this adventurous list of 12 wines found at most retail outlets. The diverse array offers a broad range of grapes and tastes while delivering on quality and price.
Piccini Chianti, Tuscany, $8.99 — Simple but well made.
Dona Paula Los Cardos Malbec, Argentina, $7.99 — Silky, succulent.
Aveleda Vino Verde, Portugal, $5.99 — Apple-lime, zingy acidity.
Honoro Vera Rose, Spain, $8.99 — Candied strawberry flavors.
Indaba Chardonnay, South Africa, $7.49 — Apple fresh and fanciful.
Turtle Bay, Sauvignon Blanc, New Zealand, $8.99 — Mouthwatering grapefruit.
Frisk Riesling, Australia, $7.99 — Off-dry, spritzy, uplifting.
Altopiano Pinot Grigio, Alto Adige, $9.99 — Light, refreshing, peachy.
Villa Pozzi Nero D’Avola, Sicily, $7.49 – Bold black fruit, whiff of chocolate.
Columbia Crest Cabernet Sauvignon, Washington, $8.99 — Best Cab under $10.
Juan Gil Laya Garnacha, Spain, $7.49 — Plum-berry bonanza, supple.
Flaco Tempranillo, Spain, $7.99 — Don’t make Sangria without it.
Shopping for wine is fun, especially when good choices are made. Take your own challenge and let me know how you make out.